Friday, February 22, 2008Anegada

Jane BakewellThe BVI's Sleeping Giant

Anegada - a shimmering sliver of land that ancient mariners used to set their compass to - stumbled on by Columbus on his third sail to the West Indies and dubbed the “drowned island”. It is a barely visible atoll, with long white beaches lifting its head out of the waters at just 30 feet at the highest point. This floating bastion was also legendary as a graveyard for ill-fated ships, which met their demise on the curving Horseshoe Reef that surrounds the island.

Although the second largest island in the BVI, stretching 11 miles in length and nearly 3 miles in width and comprising 9,696 acres; – Anegada is often referred to as “the forgotten island.” In the shadow of the much more aggressively developed Tortola and the stunning resorts of Virgin Gorda, Anegada has mainly been for the adventure seeking tourist – looking for something off the beaten path.

Could this salt pond wilderness, home to migrating flamingos and the rare Rock Iguana, be in a position for potential major development and change? The current development challenge begins with the access to the land itself. Nearly 70% of Anegada is Crown Land, with very few pieces freehold and fewer still with clear deeded titles. It has been well established, that land availability is key on the island. For although the Crown Land is held by the government, a lot of it has legitimate ownership claims by Anegadians, and the government is currently settling those claims.

Many who were displaced by the airport development have either been paid out or allocated land elsewhere. Until these claims are settled, there are very few freehold pieces available. Most of the referrals for land sales on Anegada have come through a Real Estate agent from Anegada, who has recently begun doing business on Tortola. “I feel it’s going to take a long time for the island to be developed, she reflected. “Some Anegadians want low-key development, while others consider it the last untouched island and want to keep it that way. They all seem to touch base on the same issues, but need to come together to steer Anegada in the direction they would like it to go.”

This lady’s thoughts seem to mirror other young Anegadian entrepreneurs, who want to make an impact in the way the island is developed. Kevin Faulkner who runs a successful fly fishing business with his brother, located at Setting Point, Anegada’s main harbour, sees potential development in a similar manner. “Low scale, low impact, eco-tourism would be the ideal venture for Anegada,” he states. “There needs to be initiatives to preserve the resources on the island, especially fisheries, as the conch and lobster population are dwindling rapidly.”

Currently, there is talk that the BVI government might be planning something a little more high impact for Anegada. Plans are being considered for an international airport based on the island. . The long low stretching land would accommodate longer runways than currently available on Tortola, thereby allowing larger planes and private jets. Once clearing Immigration, tourists would be flown to Tortola or Virgin Gorda by a small commuter flight.

“The high end tourist needs a destination they can fly to in a matter of hours with no major plane changes,” A former Tourist Board official, Russell Harrigan emphasized. “We are missing the revenue from the weekend jet setter that will go alternatively to Anguilla, Barbados or the Turks and Caicos. To stay competitive in the market we must have air travel that meets what a certain clientele expects from a high end destination.”

Others would beg to differ. If Anegada were in fact the last outpost in a rapidly developing tourism sector in the BVI, would it not make sense to take the flat topography, with salt ponds, cactus and rare wildlife as indications that this island is more clearly suited to low impact development such as eco-tourism? If people are looking for an eco adventure, do they expect to reach it by jet? When the Himalayas offer ski lifts, and Machu Pichu can be accessed by car, then possibly Anegada should be accessed by jet.

Kevin Faulkner, from one of the founding families on Anegada, feels the local view is divided about the potential for an international airport on Anegada. He sees a wide spectrum of opinion, with some feeling this would destroy the island as an eco-tourism destination and others thinking it might benefit the island with potential for more jobs and service oriented businesses. However, Kevin believes most Anegadians believe the cottage rental industry will continue to grow and be good in the future.

The people of Anegada have a strong sense of self-destiny, which has been evident historically in their opposition to intrusive development, which does not benefit the islanders. In the late 60’s the BVI government approved a development plan from an English firm, Bates Hill allowing a 199-year lease on 9/10ths of the total island to a company called the Anegada Development Corporation Several local grass roots leaders soon to be known in the political arena, formed The Watchful Eye Committee to study these plans further.

It was discovered; the developers’ plan for a hotel and jetty for cargo boats would be benefiting the lessee, not the Anegadian. Eventually this project was abandoned. Regardless of the diversity of opinions as to how Anegada should be developed, it is clear by the growth in the tourism sector on the other islands of the BVI, Anegada may be a sleeping giant about to awake. Mosquito Island, recently purchased by millionaire entrepreneur, Richard Branson (who also owns Necker Island with its pricey accommodations) is planned to be the next Bali Hai, with an eco friendly environment. The high end Mainsail development on Scrub Island is well under way offering a full marina and resort with townhouses for sale. The Beef Island Quorum development is a multi-phase resort development with a Jack Nicklaus designed golf course. So if the sleeping giant is roused what unique opportunities await?

Once land issues are resolved, what other challenges face an investor for a potential business opportunity in Anegada? Infrastructure is probably one of the first things one might see lacking on Anegada. Roads have begun to be paved, but in fits and starts. Why for example pave 100 yards of road with only one lane? Would it not make more sense to do 50 yards where cars can pass on both sides?

Then there is the water issue, only recently addressed with the building of a water treatment facility that now supplies water to “the settlement”, the main living complex in the centre of the island. However, businesses on the eastern and western sides of the island must still make do with water catchments systems or wells fed from springs if they are fortunate enough to be near one.

Then there is electricity. Currently a generator powered plant blasts noisily 24/7 right in the heart of the settlement and annoyingly close to private homeowners and guests of the Ocean View Hotel, one of the few apartment style hotels on the island. As development increases, the need for a larger plant will also be necessary. The current full time population on Anegada hovers somewhere around 185 persons. However, in season with over eight rollicking restaurants now dotting the shoreline from Setting Point to Pomato Point alone, there will be a need to look at the potential supply and demand.

Is there possibly a new vision for a way to develop Anegada that would be exemplary for the other islands? Steve Fox, Managing Director of OBM, an internationally based design and architectural firm on Tortola thinks so. Steve recently got his “green accreditation” in the U.S. The US Green Building Council (USGBC) awards this accreditation based on the Leed system. This is a system of measuring the environmental performance of building based on a system of points. Points are awarded from five categories; site selection, water efficiency, energy efficiency, materials and resources and environmental quality.

“The idea is to plan building with these standards as guide lines. This is a new idea to the BVI but more common in the US and Europe. Even in Barbados this is a recognized concept,” Steve says. If one is looking towards the future and increased energy and resource consumption – “going green” is the logical conclusion.

Right now Anegada supports three small hotels, The Anegada Reef Hotel, the Sands Hotel and the Ocean View Hotel. Private up scale house rentals, villas and small guest units are scattered throughout the island, but, mainly along the islands long stretching white shores some facing the boisterous Atlantic and some the calmer Caribbean Sea. There is room for low impact development in this area, attracting the nature lovers and eco -tourists that flock to Anegada.

The fishing industry is another area that is growing rapidly as Anegada is known for her quiet mangrove flats that offer some of the best bone fishing in the world. Another tourism sector that is growing is the snorkel and dive businesses. Recently, certain areas of the Horseshoe Reef have been opened for divers to explore some of the over 200 wrecks that lay here. And with the growing visitor population, there will be the need for more restaurants, provisioning stores, boutiques and shops that sell local crafts.

There are opportunities for sustainable growth on Anegada – an island that can learn from the mistakes of her sister islands and be a model of “green friendly” growth. The sleeping giant may soon awake, but will the opportunities for growth reflect the wisdom of those who have whispered their advice over the generations? Many hope the island will move into the future with development ideas that leave a ‘small imprint” on this pristine island.

Oyster Publications Inc, PO box 3369, Road Town Tortola, British Virgin Islands, VG1110