Wednesday, March 10, 2010Virgin Gorda

Jane BakewellThe Crown Jewel of BVI Tourism

Who knew some 40-odd years ago, that the BVIs third largest and second most populous island was destined to become the “crown jewel” of BVI tourism? Certainly no one would have predicted in the early 60’s that this small island, which spans less than nine square miles, was destined to play a significant role in the international travel market. But one visionary in particular, may have had a lot to do with positioning this little corner of the Caribbean as a global competitor. That man was Laurance S. Rockefeller, who saw a lot of potential in this island which Christopher Columbus dubbed the “fat virgin,” for the way it appeared as a reclining Rubenesque woman from the sea.

The year was 1961 and the Government of the BVI agreed to lease 365 acres of Crown Land on Virgin Gorda’s western shore to Rockefeller for a proposed development. Sandwiched between the main harbor and commercial center of Spanish Town, and a narrow strip of land bordering Savannah Bay, is the quiet cove of Little Dix Bay. Sheltered by a reef that extends across three quarters of the bay at the entrance, sits a pristine piece of land with a wonderful white sand beach. Rockefeller found what most upscale resort developers are looking for – virgin land that lends itself to two key components: exclusivity and privacy.

Rockefeller also happened to have the particular foresight that all investors wish they had in hindsight. The design plan called for a low-density-high-end resort that would stand the test of time - a luxury getaway destination that would fit seamlessly into the natural environment. Well ahead of the prevailing market norm that economized rooms in tall concrete towers, Rockefeller envisioned instead, open pavilions with gardens and villas that blended into lush landscaped grounds. Even air conditioning was frowned upon in the early days. It was the perfect getaway for the jet set crowd. No phones in the room, no TV’s, no distractions from a paradisiacal environment. And it worked. With distracting non-essentials off the amenities menu – the resort could focus on what it does best: providing un-paralleled service in all areas and the highest quality in dining.

Since the mid 70’s, now recognized as the era when the BVI began to gain recognition in the international tourism market, Virgin Gorda continued to stand apart as the island that seemed to attract visionary developers. It was early that decade that Myron and Bernice Hokin - veteran sailors and frequent winter cruisers to the BVI, were made an offer they could not refuse. That offer was to buy 75 acres of land in Virgin Gorda’s North Sound from fellow yachtsmen Basil Symonette and convert the few small villas he had constructed for charter captains, into use as a family retreat. That retreat grew into a world-class yachting destination. Today, the Bitter End Yacht Club, as it is known, has made the Conde’ Nast Traveler’s “Gold List.” The resort’s name is a nautical term referring to the very end of a line (or rope) and aptly describes the rocky cliff that tapers to the northern most point on Virgin Gorda. What has kept this destination that offers 85 shore-side accommodations and 70 moorings “afloat,” is the insistence on a high level of service and attention to the environment. The Bitter End Yacht Club generates its own electricity, collects and distills its own water, utilizes solar power and takes treated grey water to irrigate the gardens. The other plus is exclusivity – you can only get there by boat!

Rubbing shoulders in the North Sound with Bitter End Yacht Club and extending an additional 140 acres is Biras Creek Resort, another resort property with high attention to detail. Taken over in 2006 by Michigan developer David Johnson and his company Victor International, Biras Creek Resort has seen a major face lift in the last few years. The property has the advantage of spanning two major bodies of water, the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, both of which can be viewed from the hilltop restaurant. Ocean suites and garden villas have been refurbished in a sleek upscale Caribbean motif. The staff personally meets guests at the dock with a cool drink and warm scented washcloths and guests are promptly whisked away in a motorized golf cart to their accommodations. The resort service is truly personalized, friendly and professional. Victor International has made a further commitment to development in Virgin Gorda with the acquisition of Oil Nut Bay, a 300-acre adjoining peninsula with plans for 88 freehold villas. There will be a yacht marina and restaurant in a LEEDS -compliant development that is touted to be one of the lowest density resort communities in the Caribbean. Included in the development plans are 27 estate lots with custom home designs. A prototype, the Jewel Box, has already been constructed with state of the art kitchen and bathroom features.

Further down the western shore are two more unique resort developments. Just before the entrance to North Sound is the more low-key Leverick Bay Resort, which has 15 slips and 36 moorings for the yachting set, and hillside rooms and suites for those wanting to spend the night ashore. A yacht provisioning store and several restaurant choices surrounding a pool with shops make this anchorage another key destination for boaters and land -based tourists as well. A little further to the south and under the shadow of Gorda Peak on the western shore is Nail Bay Resort, an historic 148-acre former sugar plantation, now an on-going development for vacation villas and private home sites. With close to a mile of waterfront with a view to the Sir Frances Drake Channel and three beaches this resort caters to those who wish to be fully independent. The option for moderately priced villas appeals to a range of travelers looking for value for dollars and has garnered endorsements from Travel + Leisure as well as Frommer’s Guide. Managing Director of Nail Bay Resort, Ajit George, has a lot to say about the island’s high- end tourism development potential.

“Major hotel and resort brands see Virgin Gorda as the key tourist destination in the BVI,” says George, a long time resident of Virgin Gorda and involved in several development projects on the island. “The island has a perception of being high end and newsworthy and therefore developers want to put their investment dollars here,” Ajit explains. Earlier this year it was announced that the developers of Nail Bay Resort and Mooney Bay Estates had signed a “Memorandum of Understanding” with the India-based Taj Hotel Resorts and Palaces.

So the question arises, why is the island of Tortola, the commercial center and largest island, not attracting the same level of tourism development dollars as Virgin Gorda? One of the reasons is that Virgin Gorda is one of “Nature’s Little Secrets” prime jewels and offers a pristine island with several well –maintained national parks, beautiful beaches and coves and Gorda Peak at its center – surrounded by a semi-rain forest with diverse foliage. It is also home to The Baths, a hugely popular- giant granite boulder formation that forms mammoth caves and water pools at the southern tip of the island. There is also the historical draw to the sugar cane plantation ruins on the grounds at Nail Bay, and the spectacular hillside remains of a historic copper mine overlooking the ocean on the rocky eastern coast.

Virgin Gorda also stands apart from other tourist destinations in the BVI by the sheer number of high-level accommodations available on one island. Tortola offers a variety of guest houses and exclusive villas (some very impressively high-end), yet there are only a few hotels and only two resort properties, both of which fill a particular tourism niche, but have not garnered the same level of awards from top travel publications. The outer islands of Jost Van Dyke and Anegada offer low-key accommodations for the adventurous, where mainly sailors come ashore. The other comparable factor with Tortola is that tourism is only one of the pillars of the economy in this bustling commercial and business hub. However, tourism is the main economy of Virgin Gorda. Most small businesses are directly involved in a supporting role in the tourism sector in the area of food supply, taxi and rental car transportation, water sports activities, restaurants and gift shops. This is an island where service to visiting tourists is the main ticket for putting bread on the table and resident islanders here have an appreciation for that in their desire to offer the best service. There is also the conviviality and warmth that comes from living on a small island community with less than 4,000 residents.

It is a known truism in the highly competitive hotel industry, that buildings can be put up anywhere, but it is the level of service that differentiates one destination from another. It seems clear, that if the current new resort developments, which carry name recognition and prestige, add to the mix service that is exemplary; this will certainly add another golden boutonniere to Virgin Gorda’s high-end tourism product - which appears to be in full bloom right now.

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